From Monastery to Spa

Had to make a mad dash to catch the bus to Rila. The 10 minute taxi ride to the bus station cost me more than the 3 hour bus journey into the mountains to the most famous site in Bulgaria. Oh, you’ve never heard of Rila? Yah, well can you name any other site in Bulgaria? I didn’t think so. It is a monastery built high in the mountains known for being painted in intricate and beautiful designs on just about every square inch. Also important for it’s relics of St. Ivan of Rila that have healing properties. But more importantly it has been a safe haven for Bulgarian culture during the 500 year reign of the Turks and Greeks and the devastating Soviet block years. During these occupations the Monastery was allowed to continue it’s practices unfettered for various reasons.
It’s really beautiful. But it was a little frustrating. It was really hard to get any information on the history. No signs, no tours and as you may know I left my guidebooks back in China, so I couldn’t rely on those. I planned to stay at the Monastery but by 9 am they had already booked all their rooms, so I was forced to stay at the hotel adjacent to it. Well, I thought, at least there will be electricity and internet. Nope, no internet. Which was really only a problem when I attempted to get the hotel staff to get me information on taking the bus to my next destination on the following day. Basically they said NO. Um, without internet I certainly can’t find out for myself. There is no coffee shop down the street with a wi-fi connection…there is nothing down the street for 22 km. After a small panic attack the staff changed their tune and got very friendly. The manager told me to meet her at appointed time and she would walk me to the bus and tell the driver where I wanted to go.Once on the right bus everyone was very concerned that I get to the right place, and as this concerned a transfer they were doubly concerned. It turned out not to be a big deal. They dropped me off at a cross roads with a couple of dilapidated but busy cafes and I waited 20 minutes and the next bus arrived on time and I was bustled on and taken good c are of. The landscape was picturesque and ever changing. I especially liked seeing the carts being pulled by mules even in the middle of town and all the old people out tending their goats while reading their newspapers. In places the landscape reminded me of the valleys of Colorado, and at others the vineyards of Tuscany. And every one had grape vines growing up over their doorways, even if their doorway opened directly on to the sidewalk.
Once in Kyustendil I checked into their fancy spa. The area has been famous for their hots springs for millenia, and the Romans built quite a large complex to enjoy them. The ancient Romans, the Japanese and me, we all like a good hot bath. I indulged in their mineral baths, partook of four meals, rented a bicycle and got a few spa treatments (okay 4 spa treatments) over the next 30 hours. In between I walked around the cute old town, took photographs and ate really good ice cream. When I stopped by the local Archeological Museum I was warmly greeted in Bulgarian. When I asked if they spoke “Angliski” he morosely shook his head no and said “Espanol”. I smiled and let him know that I understand a bit of Spanish. It turns out I understand more Spanish than I realized because I had a 20 minute conversation with a Bulgarian in Spanish. I also spent a lot of my time bothering the hotel front desk staff. I asked them to find out details on the bus to my next destination and once I again I was told you can’t get there from here. But I persisted and as they work for a five star hotel they said “Yes, madame” and kept trying. Apparently you can’t just call the bus station; you have to call one of the five or six different agencies that deal with the dozens of bus companies that stop in the town and they all have erratic working hours. I’m starting to get the idea that traveling around the Balkans is not easy. I was also told the wrong price of the bus fare and was 4 Lev (2 Euros) short, and I spent an hour and a half trying to change money and ending up with a lot of foreign currency I was just going to have to change again into Macedonian Denars. I really needed the spa treatments all over again, but instead I had a 5 hour bus ride. Oh, well I’ll be taking it easy in Macedonia, just hanging out with friends. Or so I thought….

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